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STARBUCK TORBAY BEAGLES David & Lesley Hiltz PO Box 606 Brush Prairie. WA 98606 Email: Please take the time to read the following pages. These hints will help the new member of your family, your puppy, settle in. And it may also answer some questions that you forgot to ask when you collected the puppy. |
Beagle puppies are one of the most adorable puppies to be seen, but beagles are not for everyone. Beagles have a strong sense of smell (as most hound breeds do) and this quality get them in trouble very often. The first and (in my humble opinion) most important rule for a beagle owner is to have a fenced yard. Beagles require lots of activity and they are not a dog that you can send out on a potty break without an enclosure to contain them. When a beagle's nose hits the ground there seems to be a disconnect button between the brain and ears. I often tell new beagle owners that a beagle goes deaf, dumb, and blind when the nose starts working. All joking aside, a beagle must be contained or on leash or its life span will probably be shorten by a car very quickly. Just notice the number of beagle type dogs dead on the side of the road to bring home this fact! Beagles are great pets, but they are also very curious dogs. If a few scratches on the coffee table, dining room table, or frequent emptying of the bathroom trash-can would bother you -THEN A BEAGLE IS NOT FOR YOU. Beagles totally involve them selves in their home and will inspect every inch on a routine basis. If an energetic, intelligent, stubborn, manipulative dog is to be-then the beagle is the one. Those pleading eyes will melt many hearts.
PROS AND CONS OF OWNING A BEAGLE:
Beagles are fun animals to own, but they do have a few bad habits. Stool eating is one of the major drawbacks to owning a beagle. Not all beagles do this and there are products on the market to help break a beagle of this habit. I believe it is due to their strong nose and the rich food we feed them. I have had puppies start this habit as soon as they were started on commercial dog food. If you have a beagle that has this habit, check with your veterinarian for his/her suggestions. I have found that a small amount of dry pellet type rabbit food (about a tablespoon) mixed with your beagles food will almost eliminate this habit. Many skeptics will say this lasts for a short time only! I prefer to say that this is the ultimate in "recycling"
Digging also seems to be a part of life with a beagle. I am constantly amazed how carefully constructive some of my gang's holes are to be exactly in the place where I walk. A few twisted ankles and I have learned to watch for the holes.
Some Beagles are also known to be energetic barkers. Some beagles will bark at the slightest movement or noise, while others seem to care less. Training that most barking is not acceptable, when young will prevent this becoming a problem. If you are having a problem I suggest keeping a squirt bottle handy and every time your Beagle barks at something unacceptable, squirt him and also say "Quiet". Beagles are very loving and will charm many a visitor to your house with their antics. Beagles live 10-15 years and are very prone to obesity!!! Watching their diet will help to keep them fit and trim. Food is MAJOR motivator for most beagles.
A crate provides a home for your puppy. It is a place where he can feel safe, and a place for him to rest and sleep. When choosing a crate, be sure to consider the adult size of your puppy. We recommend a 200 or 300 Vari Kennel, depending on the predicted mature size of your dog.
After you have purchased your puppy's new home, introduce it to him slowly. Do not force him into the crate or he will never learn to enter on his own. Place toys and treats inside the crate. When the puppy enters the crate, give him lots of praise and then stop when the puppy exits. After the puppy is comfortable about going side, place his food dish in the crate. Feed all of his meals inside the crate, starting with the door open. Then close the door while he is eating, but make sure to open it as soon as he is finished. The puppy should soon feel at home inside his crate. Before leaving the puppy inside his crate while you are away, make sure to put him in it while you are home and leave the room. Naturally the puppy will cry at first, he misses you! If the puppy continues to cry and/or bark, enter the room so that he can see you, but do not let him out. Once the puppy realizes that you always come back, he will adjust to be in the crate without you present.
Make sure you provide plenty of toys for your puppy. While he is in his crate, he will occupy himself with his toys. He will then be less likely to chew on other things and be destructive when outside the crate. This does NOT mean that the puppy won't get into trouble and chew on things, but it does mean that he will be less likely too. Also, you can easily distract a destructive puppy by offering a favorite toy to play with. Your puppy would much rather play with you and his toys, but any dog will become destructive when ignored. He's trying to get your attention!
When housebreaking your puppy, you should never leave the puppy unattended in the crate for long periods of time. Your puppy can only "hold" it for a few hours (Remember that even some adult dogs cannot wait 8 hours while you are at work). Left in the crate for too long, he will be forced to go inside. Dogs are naturally clean, and dislike eliminating close to where they sleep. This is the advantage of using crates for house training. Puppy will not be happy to return to the crate after he has had an accident inside it.
You should never use the crate as a punishment. It is OK to put the puppy inside the crate if he has been bad, or had an accident in the house. The puppy should go willingly into the crate, even if he may cry at first. Puppy should be comfortable with being inside the crate.
To avoid puppy accidents inside the house, always make sure the puppy is under constant supervision while not inside the crate. Most accidents are not the puppy's fault, but the owner's. The puppy should monitored for any signs of needing to go outside and taken out immediately.
WHAT IS A DOG CRATE?
A dog crate is a rectangular enclosure with a top and a door, made in a variety of sizes proportioned to fit any type of dog. Constructed of wire, wood, metal, or molded fiberglass/plastic, its purpose is to provide guaranteed confinement for reasons of security, safety, housebreaking, protection of household goods, travel, illness, or just general control.
The dog crate has long been accepted, trusted, and taken for granted by dog show exhibitors, obedience trainers, breeders, veterinarians, and anyone else who handles dogs regularly. Individual pet owners, however, usually reject the idea of using a crate because they consider such enforced close confinement unfair, and even harmful, to the dog.
CRUELTY - OR KINDNESS?
As The Pet Owner Sees It: "It's like a jail-it's cruel-I'd never put MY dog in a cage like that!" If this is your first reaction to using a crate, you are a very typical pet owner. As a reasoning human being, you really value your freedom. Since you consider your pet an extension of the human family, it's only natural to feel that closing him in a crate would be mean and inhumane, would probably cause him to resent and even to hate you, and might well result in psychological damage.
BUT - YOU ARE NOT A DOG!
As The Dog Sees It:
"I love having a room/house of my very own; it's my private special place, my 'security blanket' and the closed door really doesn't bother me." If your dog could talk, this is how he might well express his reaction to using a crate! He would tell you that the crate helps to satisfy the "den instinct" inherited from his den-dwelling ancestors and relatives, and that he is not afraid or frustrated when closed in. He would further admit that he is actually much happier and more secure having his life controlled and structured by human beings-and would far rather be prevented from causing trouble than be punished for it later.
SO ... to you it may be a "cage"- to him, it's "home."
WHY USE A CRATE?
A dog crate, correctly and humanely used, can have many advantages for both you and your pet. With the help of a crate you can:
Your dog can:
You want to enjoy your pet and be pleased with his behavior ... Your dog wants little more from life than to please you ... A dog crate can help to make your relationship what each of you wants and needs it to be.
USE - BUT DON'T ABUSE
The use of a dog crate is NOT recommended for a dog which must be frequently or regularly left alone for extended periods of time-such as all or much of the day while the owner is away at work, school etc. If it is attempted, the dog must be well exercised both before and after crating, given lots of personal positive attention, and be allowed complete freedom at night (including sleeping near his owner. Do not leave food and water during the day as this will only stimulate the puppy to eliminate in the crate and house training will be difficult. In the case of a puppy, the crate must be used strictly as a "play-pen" for general confinement, having plenty of space for sleeping at one end and papers for elimination at the other. Although a puppy can be raised in this manner, the limited human supervision may result in his being poorly adjusted socially and difficult to housebreak and to train in general. Crate or no crate, any dog constantly denied the human companionship it needs and craves is going to be a lonely pet-and may still find ways to express anxiety, depression, and general stress.
WHAT KIND OF CRATE IS BEST?
I personally prefer the fiberglass/plastic airline crate because they are easier to clean, they keep hair in the crate. A puppy that has an accident in the crate will typically step all in the elimination and wire crates are difficult to clean with stool everywhere.
WHAT SIZE SHOULD A CRATE BE? A crate should always be large enough to permit any age dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting his head on the top. It is always better to use a crate a little too large than one a little too small. For a fully grown adult dog, measure the distance from tip of nose to base (not tip) of tail and use a crate close to, but not less than, this length. The height and width of most crates are properly proportioned to the length, including the convenient wire "slant-front" models designed to fit station wagons and hatchbacks. For a puppy, measure as above, than add about 12" for anticipated rapid growth. If a small crate is unavailable for temporary use, reduce the space of an adult size one (width can serve for length if the crate is large) with a reversed carton or a moveable/removable partition made of wire, or wood. Remember that a crate too large for a young puppy defeats its purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control, so its space should always be limited in the beginning- except when being used as an over-all pen (see "Use-But Don't Abuse" section.)
WHERE CAN I GET ONE? New crates can be purchased in retail pet shops and discount pet food/supplies outlets ( PETsMART ), dog equipment catalogs, or from a crate manufacturer; prices depend on size, quality, and make. Wal-Mart and K-Mart carry the plastic airline type crate at reasonable prices. Most wire crate brands include a removable metal pan/tray/floor and some can be specially ordered with the door on the side instead of the end. The less expensive brands are quite adequate for most family pets, although those made of non-plated/treated wire may discolor the coat of a light colored dog. A used crate can often be borrowed, or found at a tag/garage/yard/rummage sale at a bargain price. EVEN THE MOST EXPENSIVE DOG CRATE, HOWEVER, IS A "BARGAIN" WHEN COMPARED TO THE COST OF REPAIRING OR REPLACING A SOFA, CHAIR, WOODWORK, WALLPAPER, OR CARPETING!
WHERE SHOULD I PUT IT? Since one of the main reasons for using a crate is to confine a dog without making him feel isolated or banished, it should be placed in. or as close as possible to, a "people" area- kitchen, family room etc. To provide an even greater sense of den security and privacy, it should be put in a corner and if a wire crate have the sides and back loosely draped with a sheet, large towel, or light blanket which can easily be adjusted for desired visibility or air. The top of a wire crate, when covered with a piece of plywood can also serve as handy extra shelf or table space. Admittedly, a dog crate is not a "thing of beauty"-but it can be forgiven for not being a welcome addition to the household decor as it proves how much it can help the dog to remain a welcome addition to the household!
CRATING THE PUPPY: A young puppy (8-16 weeks) should normally have no problem accepting a crate as his "own place." Any complaining he might do at first is caused not by the crate, but by his learning to accept the controls of his unfamiliar new environment. Actually, the crate will help him to adapt more easily and quickly to his new world.
HOW TO USE IT: Place the crate in a "people" area-the kitchen, if possible, in a spot free from drafts and not too near a direct heat source. For bedding, use an old towel or piece of blanket which can be washed (should he have an accident) and some freshly worn unlaundered article of your clothing such as a tee shirt, old shirt, sweater etc. Avoid putting newspaper in or under the crate, since its odor may encourage elimination; corrugated cardboard is better if there is no floor pan. A puppy will only upset a dish of water, unless you purchase one of the metal ones which lock onto the door. Make it very clear to children that the crate is NOT a playhouse for them, but a "special room" for the puppy, whose rights should be recognized and respected. However, you should accustom the puppy from the start to letting you reach into the crate at any time, lest he become overprotective of it. Establish a "crate routine" immediately, closing the puppy in it at regular 1 to 2 hour intervals during the day (his own chosen nap times will guide you) and whenever he must be left alone for up to 3-4 hours. Give him a chew toy (e.g.. Hoof or special favorite toy) for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tags which could become caught in an opening. At night, in the beginning, you may prefer to place the crate, with the door left open and newspapers nearby, in a small enclosed area such as a bathroom, laundry room, or hall. Crying or complaining at 5:00 AM is easier to endure ignore if you know that the puppy is not uncomfortable. However it also means he is telling you he need to go out and housetraining will be expedited, if you respond to this and get up and take him out and then put him back in his area and go back to bed yourself! Once adjusted to his new life, and if he has no intestinal upset, he will soon show greater bowel control by eliminating only once, or not at all, and then maybe crated all night in his regular place. Even if things do not go too smoothly at first DON'T WEAKEN and DON'T WORRY; be consistent, be firm, and be very aware that you are doing your pet a real favor by preventing him from getting into trouble while left alone. Increase the space inside the crate as the pup grows so that he remains comfortable. If you choose not to, or are not able, to use a crate permanently, plan to use it for at least 5 or 6 months. By then the dog is well past the teething stage-then start leaving the crate door open, when someone is at home during the day, and when he is briefly left alone. If all goes well for week or two, and the dog seems reliable when alone, remove the crate itself and leave a dog bed (with the plastic/airline type-just leave the bottom half as the bed) in the same spot. Although he will probably miss the crate enclosure, that spot will have be "his own place" and his habit of good behavior should continue. Should any problem occur at a future time, however, even after a long period without a crate, a dog that has been raised in one will readily accept it should the need arise for travel, illness, behavior problems etc. and may really welcome its return.
Folks who have had babies in their homes know about making the home safe for children. Here are some things you can do to make sure your home is safe for your new puppy.
In case of an accident, have your veterinarian's phone number posted by the phone!
The last thing a breeder or owner wants is to loose or have a dog injured. There are a few simple steps that can be done to help prevent that from occurring.
Is your power, water, or gas meter inside your fence?
The gate may be accidentally left open, and a puppy could sneak out while the meter reader is in your yard. Check into mailing your reading in , this can be done and it works well. As long as YOU remember to read the meters!!! Make sure all gate to the outside world have a padlock on them, so nobody can accidentally leave it open.
Drive Right on In
If you must open your gate to drive in, always catch your dog and put him up safely. Do not expect a dog or puppy to not run out the gate or run towards the car. Educate friends and family to not "just open the gate" and drive in, always check for the dog and if possible park outside the gate until the dog is secured and safe.
Where is your garbage picked up?
Again, if the can is inside your fence your dog could get out. Start taking the garbage to the curb.
Moving anytime soon?
Moving is hectic and gates and doors can be left open. Board your dog while packing/loading or if crate trained, crate your dog and walk on a leash. I really encourage boarding because many dogs will get upset at all the strangers coming in and out of their house!! I made this suggestion to a friend whom owns two of my beagles. She would not consider boarding her babies!! Well, a frantic call from her and "the movers left the gate open" told me everything I needed to know. Luckily, both beagles were found shortly a few blocks away. The ending could have been tragic. Lesson learned-when she moved a year later-the dogs were boarded.
Would you like to have a pool party?
If you have a pool, treat your dog just like a child. You should either teach him how to get out or make sure your dog cannot get in unsupervised. There have been too many dogs drown in pools. If your pool has steps, teach your dog to swim to the steps. Start slowly by easing the dog in and swimming with him to the steps. Eventually have the dog swim from the far side of the pool to the steps. I have someone lower the dog in and I swim with the dog, supporting him and saying "go". As the dog learns to swim the right direction towards the steps, I call crazily from the steps. And then praise, praise, and "Goooood Boy"!! Of Course! If you do not have steps in your pool and just a ladder. Do not let the dog near the pool unsupervised. The dog can fall in and unable to get out, drown. Especially, small dogs like beagles.
ID Please
Always have some form of ID on your dog. Collar with tag (never a choke collar), tattoo, or microchipping are all good suggestions. All three would be great. Talk with your vet about tattooing and microchiping and make sure the tag is up to date.
Charge It Please-NOT!!
Dogs will chew. Do not leave power cords within easy reach of a curious mouth. Puppies are like babies, everything goes to their mouth. Is your A/C unit or Pool filter unit in the yard with the dog? Dogs will chew the lines and hoses. Prevention is the best option. Maybe a decorative lattice type fence around those units??
Let's Celebrate
New Year's eve and the Fourth of July are nights when many dogs are frightened and try to escape from those awful sounds. Please crate you dog or just bring the dog in the house to prevent it from becoming terrified by fireworks. You never know when one from the next door neighbor might accidentally come into your yard and explode near your dog. A family moved in near me a few days before New Year's and on New Year's eve their dog escaped. The fireworks in this area were tremendous and I do not know if that caused the dog to panic. I only know to the best of my knowledge, the dog was never found.
Healthy, Happy, Loved and Safe-this is what a dog's life should be.